Wednesday, 6 February 2013

Over mountains and through the jungle to Machu Picchu (12-15 August 2012)

Rich and I sometimes experience things differently but the overall opinion about our 4-day trek to Machu Picchu is definitely the same, as we both are hoping to do it again at some stage (may it be the 'real' Inka Trail, the Salkaintay Trail or again the Inka Jungle Trail). In between the lines you might find some differences though.This is my story:


Inka Jungle Trail from Charly and Rich on Vimeo.



THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STORY

The reason was Machu Picchu, the obstacle was undoubtedly the journey, but for different reasons this time... Long summaries of broken shoulders, Jason Bourne, cloud cities and a wayward beetle.

After spending an additional four hours awake, on top of the already 20 hours of the bus trip to Cusco, I was far past the point of no return for conscious thought and in desperate need for meditation and rest. Our room, oddly enough, had three double beds – the right kind of ratio for this kind of exhaustion, I thought. The action of getting into bed was comparable to pouring glue out of a jug, but the feeling was more like just finishing a death march across Papua New Guinea. I was babbling in tongue and really not making any sense, so I slept and Charly went to organise our journey to Machu Picchu.

Over the past few weeks, the motivation to deal with constant diarrhoea, danger and risk was the excitement of meeting my dear friend Aiden and his girlfriend Georgia in Cusco – who were on holidays in South America and also going to Machu Picchu. Ironically, I am living Aiden's life, but without his sharp-angular features and full head of hair. He was always been in love with South-America, professing a deep connection for reasons I never really understood - I suspected it had something to do with his powerful lust for exotic women and strong hunger for adventure. On the other hand, all I ever wanted to do was to rest on a beach somewhere in the Caribbean and wait for oblivion – inviting the adventure to come to me rather than going off and looking for it. Whatever the outcome, that tricky bastard 'fate' tied a knot somewhere in the scheme of things and now Aiden is anchored back home: successful, wealthy and still wretchedly handsome and I am here stuttering Spanish to people who don't understand 'No carne por favor' while slowly bleeding money form my palms...

The day prior to Aiden and Georgia's arrival from a snowboarding trip in central Chile, I received a heavy email from Aiden explaining that Georgia had fallen awkwardly and broken her shoulder and that they will have to fly back home the next day from Santiago... Obviously the correct, mature posture would have been to curse probability and think about how unlucky she was - but I couldn't. I share the same hand-eye co-ordination of Stephen Hawking. I've been snowboarding before and I've eaten snow plenty of times. One time so hard it rewired the connections in the lower-half of my body for days after – making a tickling sensation every time I had to deal with something difficult in the toilette. So, if I could starfish down a goddamn mountain and come away clean, why can’t other people do it! Ahhh, CRAP! What are the chances? Probably higher than you expect, given the variables on the side of an icy mountain. It took several minutes for me and Charly to come to grips with the sudden-unwanted news, but there was nothing else we could do but swallow the bitterness just like Aiden and poor Georgia. A while after the revelation, I levelled out from my rage to then think about their misfortune – particularly Georgia's: who would have to sit on a flight, for 19 hours to get back to home soil – all with a broken shoulder. I usually feel like I've broken a shoulder when I come off a long-haul nightmare and couldn't imagine what it would be like to sit on a plane for so long with one. Although Charly can, because she did the same thing several years ago and I still don't know how she dealt with it. I know women are stronger, the evidence for this is obvious and I'm sure Georgia is also made of kevlar, so there is no need to worry... But what if that plane ditches half-way across in the Pacific and all-out panic erupts, she has no chance with that arm! Aiden is a strong swimmer under normal conditions, but not conditions paramount to the Serengeti. Wait... Relax... This sucks and when you see randomness you will kick him in the balls, but for now, you need to save your energy because you're going to need it for tomorrow you're going to Machu Picchu. Yes, the great winds of the universe howl in your face sometimes and this is no different – the wind will calm, shoulders will heal and normality will restore itself. Aiden and Georgia will be back home comfortable while you are suffering from relentless fungal infections that hound all the surfaces that rub together. Maybe this outcome was a warning to poor Georgia: go home or run the risk of something worse happening. Probably not, I thought. Just another unexpected twist in a nice girl’s saga.

DAY 1:

The next morning we woke early to meet the group that we were doing the trip with, which consisted of a family of three from Canada and a Chinese lady from Dallas:Texas (wherever that is). We met our guide: Ronnie: a genuine Peruvian, who explained that he had been on too many walks. An average sized Peruvian with a gentle personality and excellent English, I felt he was in desperate need of a career change – not reacting at all to the nervous energy emitted by the tourists, only responding to humour with a snuffing noise from his nose. Probably herd it all before, I thought, in every shape and size. So, there’s really no need to be another faceless whitey with this man – I’ll leave him alone and be as featureless as possible. We mounted the mini-van and set out for the hills.

The drive from Cusco to the mountains took a few hours – snaking through several valleys which could have been designed from the imaginations of J.R.R Tolkien or Jules Verne. In one valley our depressed driver, while overtaking on a bend, decided to end it all and aimed for a head-on collision with another van, but lucky for us the other driver valued life more and veered right launching into a field. With the screeching sound of the other van’s tires still in our ears, I looked over at the Canadians and guessed, from their pale faces and silence, that their travel agent forgot to tell them how these fuckers drive. Feeling that I should say something, I leant over and mentioned that the lines on the road were merely optional and that it was probably best not to look. Jesus… Charly’s words repeated through my breath. I was surprised by my calm under-reaction. Was it bravado? Was I finally fatalistic? I didn't know. But it seemed my reaction was shaped by having someone else frailer than me in the car – assuming a quasi big brother role. Maybe my fright response was so over-used I am no longer able to respond in that manner any more as if suffering from chronic paralysis. Intriguingly, the Chinese lady from Dallas:Texas (wherever that is) didn't react either...

After the scare, the conversation in the van was shallow, so it didn’t take long for the 'what do you do' questions to surface. Charly and I exchanged the relevant information, being as efficient as possible with the details from having repeated the sentence every third day since travelling. I was content with everyone’s answers except one, Julie, the small 50-something Asian woman from Dallas:Texas (wherever that is). Curious… She intentionally danced around the topic - seemingly avoiding the obvious answer, not committing to certainty.

“I work for the D.O.D,” she said.

The D.O.D? These goddamn Americans and their assumptions, I squirmed. Every single American we met travelling, when asked “where do you come from?” would answer with: “Nantucket: Massachussets!”, “Dayton: Ohio!” or O.C: California!” Does arrogance, naivety, stupidity, ignorance force these people to leave out the crucial, most relevant piece of information in the conveyance? I don't know, but Charly and I have started to reply with: “I’m from Browns Plains: Logan” or “I'm from Schwiederstorf: Niedersachsen”, just to even the playing field and to fuck with their minds...

“The D.O.D?” I asked curiously.

“The Department of Defence”, she replied slightly miffed. In my mind I tore off my shirt and screamed like a wolf, “FOR WHICH BLOODY COUNTRY!!!!!”

Her short answer was prompt for more questions. “Did you fly here from the U.S?” I asked politely.

“No. I flew in from Afghanistan and afterwards I have to go straight back.”

“Holy moley! Afghanistan!” I blurted. “Well...what is it that you do there?”

“Oh... I can’t tell you that,” She stated. “It's confidential”...

Oh no! Questions were feverishly stacking up in my mind in no certain order. Initially I considered flirting with her to gain some kind of footing, however, the distorted image of a person suffering form an acute bout of Tourret’s warned me off the idea. No… No need to go all out just yet! Even though the intrigue is eating a hole in the back of your neck you need to be cool! After all, you have another four days with this woman, if you push the matter too far now, the matter might flee and then you'll never know!

Our first adventure was the downhill mountain-biking. Nervous energy could be felt in the atmosphere as we scaled up the mountains to 4350m to be well and truly in the canopy of the clouds. The mini-van pulled off to the side road in a clearing and we all exited and waited while the guides unloaded all the bikes and safety gear. Waiting gave a short time for reflection on many matters: family, politics, materialism and what the little Asian-American lady from Dallas:Texas does in Afghanistan. Just as I was getting into a trend of thought a truck boomed down the road with a tremendous fluttering sound from its compression breaking – humming a low-resonance vibration under our feet. We all looked and felt the disturbance to again acknowledge what we were about to do and what we were sharing the road with.


The bike ride started off slow as everyone was getting re-acquainted with their spirit and their biking skills before the pace quickened, which didn't take long. After a while, travelling at 60km/h almost felt too slow on the long-sweeping bends, but the problem at travelling at that speed is the sound of the screaming wind in your ears – leaving you deaf. So, it was really no surprise to be startled by buses and trucks honking angrily, looking to manoeuvre past on the narrow-high road. I wasn't angry at them at all, but proud with their maturity. In Bolivia, there would have been no honking or warning, just the sensation of our soft bodies being ground to a paste on the bitumen. 


It took nearly three hours and six pedal-strokes to glide down the mountain-range and in that time we saw the obvious effects of warmth and moisture on the environment, as the scenery gradually changed from a cold-hostile glacier to warm-lush banana plantations in the valley. At the bottom, we were met by our mini-van, which loaded our bikes and took us to our accommodation for the night. 


DAY 2:

Ronnie had warned us the night earlier that we would have to get up with the parrots to beat the sun, for we had to walk for eight hours back up to 3000m. Eight hours? That should be plenty of time to fleece this mysterious Asian-American woman from Dallas:Texas of more information, I figured.

The walk was quiet and very pleasant in the warm glow of the morning. Because of the mountains, the sunshine was initially blocked in the valley which was still a dark-azul colour and as the light gradually meandered its way down off the mountain side into the valley, more noise could be heard of all the little beasts waking up. 


The dusty-trail we were walking on was a functioning road and at this time it was used mostly by trucks transporting kids to school, tractors and shepherds which gave it an organic/necessary feel to it. I again thought about approaching the Asian-American woman from Dallas:Texas to sift some more information. (I think from now on, I'll refer to her in the acronym of AAWFDT, because us folk in intelligence are in the business of being specific). I noticed that the AAWFDT was walking by herself, so I moved my weight and pulled up next to her – matching her speed. I asked the AAWFDT if it was good to be on holiday and she replied, “Oh yes, so good! I don't get holidays so often.” I bet you don't, I thought. Blowing up the Taliban, negotiating with the Pakistanis, covering up war-crimes takes time... I began using covert methods of investigating – round about tactics, methods she may be used to. I tried to determine what her feelings were on flying, thinking a fear of flying would cancel out several action jobs. I told her my insentient hatred for flying and my dependence on valium.

“You think flying is bad in jumbos! My business car is a Chinook helicopter! They're bumpy as hell,” the AAWFDT explained.

“Jesus, a Chinook! How often do you fly in one of those?”

“My sector is southern Afghanistan so I have my own and I use it whenever I need to. It's too dangerous to drive on the roads. Especially for us!”

“Especially for you?”

“Well, I'm not military.”

“Then what are you?”

“Civilian-contracted, but I/we report directly to the secretary of defence,” she said reluctantly.

Holy shit, I thought. This little woman may be the tip of the sword. How close? I didn't know. She reports to the office of the secretary of defence, but what do you know about that office? Not much, I considered – It could be a really big office, lots of people doors and what not... There were too many loose ends to make any concrete conclusion, although, on her last statement the AAWFDT looked like she realised she had given away too much, so the trail ran silent. An uncomfortable dull developed which rocked my nerves and I needed to fall back and re-evaluate my position for the next interrogation. 


The trail led us up a steep section for about two hours - the beginning of the ascent. It was hard going, even for Charly and I who had now become accustomed to difficult walks. We were sweating like pigs and luckily it was time for a scheduled rest-stop at the advertised “monkey house”. I was looking forward to the “monkey house” from having had so much fun with Simón – the cheeky-humanoid-masturbating spider monkey in Bolivia, hoping I would again have the chance to whip around with a howling-maniac on my back. The foliage was so dense it hid our approach into the area of the “monkey house” – which ended up being three houses cut into the side of the mountain. To my disgust, this was no monkey house – not at all like what we had seen in Bolivia, but rather one poor-little capuchin monkey chained to a door, unable to move more than a metre. I had to sit down opposite this poor thing while it jerked in all directions out of frustration. The only stimulation it had was a teddy bear which it used to hump. Dear god, I thought. Can’t these people see the bizarre cruelty in this scenario, especially when we could hear the banter of other monkeys in the surrounding jungle? 


If I had a backbone, I thought, I would punch everybody in the goddamn face and break the chain with a swift heel, setting the poor beast free. But, being guided through the Peruvian jungle takes the edge of your vengeance and the ability to be righteous. I was glad to leave as soon as we did...

The walk for the next three hours intensified until we reached a landing made of stone by someone, sometime before. The landing gave perspective to how high we really were and the shear drop that surrounded us. 




We regained our breath and cooled-down a little so that Ronnie could explain that the next section was particularly dangerous because of the extreme drop. Like most things, I can’t handle heights. Born with a terrestrial brain that is too aware of itself, it rebels at altitude – reaping havoc with my central nervous system and balance making my legs wobble and shiver like some kind of detoxing junkie: turning every step into a fight for survival... 


I begged Charly to be careful, because I know that she's obsessed with taking photos no matter what the conditions are and it is truly a nightmare to picture her tumbling down one of these cliffs. I went first, behind Ronnie: my legs immediately convulsing with anger. Damnation! These Inkans must have had tiny feet, I though – noticing that some of the steps only had enough room for the heel. I looked down at the river some 1900 meters below and I remember imagining how many llama skeletons laid there shattered on the rocks. JESUS! Even writing this now makes me arch my back and grind my teeth!!! At one stage, behind me I hear a loud slap as if someone had tripped. My goddamn heart came out of my goddamn mouth! I snapped around to see a goddamn Charly, goddamn giggling at me. She jumped down a step on purpose, just to scare me. The sudden rush of adrenalin manifested itself as a loud GRRRR, which echoed throughout the valley.  

Several hours later, after descending to the valley below, we criss-crossed the river a few times...




...before making it to a set of hot-pools. The steam hung thick over the pool which was lined by knackered-travellers and judging by their drool and twitching faces, it looked pretty good. So we joined them and soaked our sore, dirty flesh until the skin fell off. 





That night, at dinner, I decided to get even more invasive with the investigation of the AAWFDT. I figured that direct information will be impossible to extract in any conventional manner, so I thought the subliminal method would work best. Instead of asking the obvious question, I planned on embedding key words in large bodies of text with the goal of not being heard, but instead thought about and the reaction to that thought was what I was looking for.

After dinner the conversation started off smooth and light, grazing in many fields of interest before I focused my attention onto the AAWFDT by asking...

“Ah, AAWFDT your glass is empty! Would you like some water-boarding?”

I held my breath for a moment and watched for the slightest gesture in reaction to an abrupt thought. She stayed cold as a stone and replied, “Yes please.” I was dealing with a goddamn professional here, I thought. Better skulk into the intrusive...

“Oh, so AAWFDT you're divorced! You wouldn't believe it, I had this girlfriend once: Geneva Convention, she was crazy as hell too!”

No reaction except a vague look as she sipped her drink, maybe catching a whiff of my tactics, maybe not. Better integrate props to throw her off course. I fuzzed-up my beard and put on my army-green cap, stood up, turned around and addressed the room...

“Yes indeed it war at crimes difficult to enter Florida looking like Fidel Castro!”

One of the Canadians commented on my likeness to Fidel, but the AAWFDT remained defiant and emotionless. Not even a twitch of an eyelid or a spasm of a cheek. I felt like I was out of my depth. In addition, the other members of our group looked a little on edge after the blurting of several out-of-context remarks. Nothing made sense to them, but did it make sense to AAWFDT? I couldn't tell...

“Oh man I need to sneeze! Ahhh.-Ibrahim Salih Mohammed Al-yacoub-chooooo!

As I held my mouth and nose in my hand, I raised my left eyebrow to catch a glimpse of her reaction. She stood up and slid the chair away with the backs of her knees and said, “Big day tomorrow. Good night, everybody.”

Oh, is that so, mysterious lady? The rest may be oblivious to the connection, but I'm on to the scent... Unless you were in the business of knowing or an avid reader of Al Jazeera, like I am, you would probably have no idea who Ahhh.-Ibrahim Salih Mohammed Al-yacoub, the FBI’s most wanted person, is. But, I do and it seems so does she…The subtle sneeze works every time.

On the way down, back to our room, I raked through the information in my mind with the latest revelation. I briefly considered the possibility that the probes weren’t subtle at all, and that she could be in her room thinking the same thing. As I approached our bedroom door I took off my shirt, reached up and unscrewed the light-bulb from above, I then wrapped it in my shirt, placed it on the ground and stomped on it with my thongs – smashing it to pieces. Looking around in the darkness, the coast seemed clear, so I entered the room, turned around and scattered the shards of glass quietly in front of our door. Charly seemed confused, “Rich! What the hell are you doing?!” “Nothing darlin, just a game played between lions,” I replied – shutting the door and latching the chain. Your move...

DAY 3:

The next morning we were taken to a zip-line park for a break in the walking – the activity had nothing to do with the Inkas nor did it achieve the efficient crossing of great distances: it was just something nice and exciting to do on the way. Our group was not alone in this little adventure, being joined by several other touring groups – which formed a crowd of almost fifty people. I was grumpy, not ready for the sudden exposure to other people again – being forced to listen to their squawks and barking, I would have rather done it alone in our little group. The company that ran the park was very professional, clearly explaining the process and all probabilities. We were given a harness, which connected our bodies to the cable and a thick leather glove, which acted as the break when applied directly to the cable above, behind the wheels. Really no problem at all...

The massive group bulged its way up the hill, eventually funnelling into a single-line on a narrow path that lead up to the first cable: 500m high. A rather large Argentinean man went first: being nervous as he activated the break too soon and became marooned just over half way, with still 100m to go. Charly went next with a tearing scream of excitement that startled a flock of birds below, she zoomed off. 




Because of the steep angle on one of the sections, we were warned that we would be going so fast that we would have to use our break no matter what and just to reaffirm the point the guide showed us how to use the break once more. The guide gave the all clear and I launched off the edge gaining a blistering speed! I was quickly reaching the other side so I began pulling hard down on the leather-break glove, which gave off a burning hide smell, to then land gently on a small platform. The platform was maybe three meters deep only enough space for four people, constructed from wood and bolted to the cliff-face, 25m below the edge and 300m above the valley. When landing, I transferred the karabiner to another cable which was bolted to the cliff-face and I waited for Charly and the others to come across to then scale up the moutain. Charly came zooming over giggling madly, slowed and landed with no problems. Looking to the other side, we could see a black speck being pushed off the edge. The whining of the wheels echoing through the valley and the vibration could be felt through the cable and the wooden structure. The black speck turned into a dot, which morphed into a blob, then materialised into the AAWFDT – who was travelling with such speed a shock-wave had formed on every leading edge of her body creating a condensation cloud. The guide was talking to us, not paying attention and as he was talking I noticed that the AAWFDT wasn't slowing down, but instead speeding up – turning the condensation cloud in to a blinding light as her friction super-heated the contacted atmosphere into a plasma. The guide swivelled around to see what I was looking at and by that time the AAWFDT was only a few meters from the platform, travelling at mach 5 – stone faced and silent but frantically pulling down on the wheels with her break not the goddamn cable. The guide sprung into action and tackled her in a mega-collision sending a sonic-boom into the valley. The AAWFDT went completely up-side down and bashed her legs on the cliff-face - making the frail-wooden construction violently shake away from its bolts.

“Great Scott!” I blurted. “You nearly turned into a goddamn smear on that wall lady! What the hell happened?”

“I couldn't slow down. The break didn't work!” she explained.

We calmly explained to her the laws of physics and how the break worked – which seemed to be news to her because her eyes widened and both eyebrows peaked as she confirmed, “Oh...behind the wheels!”

Yes AAWFDT, behind the wheels…

I was happy that she and we were O.K., but I was bitterly annoyed with myself for having entertained the notion that she was some kind of extremist avenger. I spent two days fishing for all-types of reactions and all it took was for her to nearly turn into an atom soup on the side of a cliff... Or was this apart of her plan? Shit, I don't know.

The zip-lining was just the prelude to the walking that had to be done in the afternoon to reach Aguas Calientes: the town at the footsteps of Machu Picchu. The trek followed a lazy river which had eroded a wide corridor through walls of mountains and at some stage the trail became a rail-road track which guided us all the way to our destination, leaving Ronnie somewhat obsolete. 


Some moments were totally free from conversation, just the sound of shuffling feet on top of the pebbles and the wind making its way through the trees. An amazing walk that may have been carried out by that pestilence Francisco Pizarro, as he methodically hunted those poor people across the entire continent - forcing them to ascend into the mountains like Machu Picchu. Occasionally, the low rumbling sound of a train would disturb the serenity and as it drew closer its vibration could be seen on the track making small stones dance. Its horn blasted a sound way out of context for the environment, an unwarranted offensive pollution moving slowly past at 10km/h. People on the train paid a exuberant price to avoid all the effort of walking, but they really missed the whole point of it all - the spiritual aspect to the journey: Mountain biking, hot springs, zip-line park etc….We shuffled our tired arses into Aguas Calientes around dusk – found our accommodation and slept... 


DAY 4:

To maximise the chances of a photo without too many people, we needed to get there first - the problem was that everyone else thought the same thing. We met our group on the street out the front of our hotel around 4:30am and already there was a steady stream of people making their way to the gate, which was about 1.5km away. Bastards! We're already too late! We’ve got to move goddamn it!

We walked out of the town to the gate which lies about 400m below Machu Picchu. The local dogs thought this was great and joined the migration of people as well, but occasionally straying too deep into another dog’s territory causing a showdown in the darkness. Off in the distance, near the gate, a pile of people formed all waving their torchlight - there was no apparent line so we joined the heap. A nervous anxiety could be felt, probably because of the hike that lay ahead: some 2000 steps on a dark narrow path. 


It was relatively silent, no one really talking which was nice because of the trickling steam near by – all of this was broken by the guard throwing his machete at one of the dogs, which made a sharp-glancing sound as it skimmed across the road slamming into the poor animal which yipped out of fright – shrieking in the pitch black. I felt like fighting this limping (now machete-less) old brute, but I figured beating the reason into him would not revert a continental wide policy of animal cruelty. Two lines formed in front of the gate so that passports could be checked against tickets. Once through, people spewed into the park, all walking with the most pressing haste! 

Our group managed to get to the path relatively early before many others came running across the bridge behind us. The initial ascend was constant and at a dishonest pace, I thought - my lungs already consuming cubic meters of oxygen while the lactic acid burned holes in my thighs. Natural selection showed its teeth early by felling some smoking Italians, who arrogantly felt it was better for everyone around them to all inhale carbon monoxide and benzine. They put up little resistance in their asphyxiated-state as I shoved them to the ground to allow the clean passage of air and a clear path for the rest of humanity to pass. The higher we went the greater the attrition rate was – dead bodies everywhere piled on the foliage or splayed across the path, sometimes providing a tricky obstacle in the darkness, sometimes providing more traction. 



Reaching the top, after the lunacy of the ascend, there was again a bottleneck of people waiting in a mass of steam which evaporated into the cold-dry mountain air. The dead-end at the gate of Machu Picchu made the manic ascend seem pointless. Once through the gate we met up with Ronnie again so that he could guide us through the ruins. He showed and explained various things about the place: obviously too much to go on about here. 










 
A few hours later after perusing the site, it was time to say goodbye to our group and I bid a spiteful farewell to the AAWFDT, who still existed in a shroud of secrecy. Maybe I'll catch a pixelated glimpse of her on Al Jazeera one day, or a White House press release denying her existence…Or maybe not. 


For Charly, the 2000 steps we climbed in the morning clearly weren’t hard enough, still hungry for an additional 3000 steps to get to where the condors fly: 600m above the ruins at a staggering 3050m above sea-level. Starting the 1.5 hour climb in the middle of the day was by no means desirable but it had to be done - even if our skin melted off our bones. 


I complained and howled like a brat and the effort was stretching the mechanical specifications of my knees, but the view on the way up was spectacular as the path curled around the back side of the mountain, sometimes on a razors-edge, before reaching the top - giving a stunning horizon to horizon view of the entire region. 





A few people laid sprawled out on rocks and other formations – absorbing the view, some were smoking weed some were eating sandwiches, all doing what they could to recoup from the hike. The quietness was unforgettable. Everything was beneath us: the mountains, the ruins of Machu Picchu and the river which looked like a creek 1000m below made no noise. We heard nothing of anything except the ruffling sound of the soft turbulence buffeting our bodies and trawling through the knee-high bushes. It felt like you could scream your lungs out and the sound would fall like stone at your feet. All the best spots had been taken, but we found a nice ledge where we could hang our feet off - to allow some kind of initial soft tissue regeneration to occur. 


Time whizzed by and we were being scolded by Peruvian sun, so we thought we would start our long descent - some 5000 steps. All my joints creaked like a 1920's barstool and there was zero grace as I stood up and grabbed my bag. Charly made a sudden inhaling sound and pointed her arm directly out into the valley and said, “Look!” as a condor, the mythical beast maybe 15m wide, sailed by without a sound.


Everyone on that mountain top was in awe, contributing to the significance of this moment, all of which was broken by the sound of hyperventilation. I watched the condor for as long as I could, ignoring the breathing, I then turned around to see the AAWFDT standing next to us bent over catching her breath. Holy shit! How did she make it up here?

We walked the entire distance: all the way down, all 6000 steps, back to Aguas Calientes which aged me arthritically about ten years...

Our train back to Cusco left that night from Aguas Calientes train station. A disorganised soup of people arriving and leaving: all at once, all in a baffled confusion, which itself was baffling because there was only one train and only one direction. Once it was allowed we boarded and found seats facing two other travellers who were in no mood for conversation. The cabin was dull with sound as most of the people were already falling asleep with the gentle rocking motion of the train. Looking around at everyone sleeping my eye caught a contour disturbance on the wall on the other side of the cabin. I sat there staring at it for nearly ten minutes trying to figure out what the shape was and then I realised that the shape was a freakishly large mutant beetle/bat straight from the dank belly of the Amazon! This goddamn thing was about the size of my hand and I have big hands! I remember thinking that it was only a matter of time until this beast decided to eject itself from the wall becoming disorientated, probably slamming into all the windows and people, in a bid to escape - creating all kinds of hellish panic. Sure enough, twenty minutes later, the big bastard’s wings buzzed with action – propelling itself backwards, straight down the ally: shoulder height at top speed. It then made a sharp 180-degree-left-turn to dock with an American girls face with precision. I was staring in shock because she didn't wake up! Was she already dead? Probably not, but it was only a matter of time before the confrontation, so I covered my ears with my hands and waited for the explosion. While still sleeping, her hand moved up to brush away the tickling sensation, but when she realised that it didn't dislodge easily she opened her eyes and screamed as if something was trying to impregnate her face with an alien. The distress jolted the silence and a man somewhere in deep-sleep blurted, “ALBINO!” The American girl managed to break the monsters grip and it boomed around the cabin to again land on the wall. Not so tranquil now, I thought as many people stared at the beast’s presence.

Maybe that’s where poor Georgia would have sat... 



Even more photos here: https://picasaweb.google.com/109362659982164453049/InkaJungleTrail?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Friday, 18 January 2013

Ritchie's Road Rant - No. 2 (9-10 August 2012)


Travelling through South-America means riding on buses... lots of goddamn buses. Unless of course you choose to fly, but travelling like that cuts out all of the journey to leave you with only the destinations, which turns out to be less fulfilling. This statement however, could be challenged in the context of travelling within Bolivia, where the destination is definitely more desirable than the inhospitable journey. Every time I stepped on public transport in Bolivia, I wished so very deeply for a jet pack or some kind or a maintenance receipt for the breaks or just the driver’s blood-alcohol test results, but like everything else with me, it's my problem not the universes. The full visceral experience of travelling in Bolivia at one stage was made more acute by a painful Facebook status posted by a dear friend Karim, a rogue Frenchman tearing across Peru. He stated: “the buses in Peru are like first class, u know and they even have wifi”... Ohh the distain that surged through my veins in response to this comment, especially poignant when we were about to get on one of these goddamn buses for 20 hourson the edge of a cliff, probably filled with llamas, chickens and thieves, all vying for space and respect only for everything to die in a twisted fireball from the drivers two bottles of rum miscalculation. In retrospect this did not happen, but nevertheless we can not discredit the potency of the fear that I felt – which was why I was so happy to go to Peru...

Our first bus ride in Peru from Tacna to Arequipa was exactly what Karim had promised and Arequipa also delivered. I will not attempt to describe how stunning this place was neither will I attempt to explain how happy I was to see a supermarket and a McDonalds... The place ticked the two boxes so we decided to settle down for a bit, but in the meantime it was time to do the Machu Picchu job...


We arrived at the bus station around 9pm to catch the overnight bus to Cusco, the base camp for all Machu Picchu trails. I was ablaze with excitement because it was finally here – first class travel with Peru's best bus company: Cruz del Sur. I could sleep in their 160 degree-reclined seats, I could eat their vegetarian food, I cold connect to their internet and I could use their goddamn toilette in any way I saw fit. We checked our luggage in at the service desk and then were asked to proceed to 'the waiting lounge', which was... a comfortable waiting lounge. Once the bus was ready, everyone meandered outside and formed a queue in front of the steward, who was sitting behind a desk checking off people's names while a security guard took our photo and then wanded each passenger with a metal detector – a wonderful feeling of security, but this just seemed to level the playing field with battling the people on the bus but not the people on the outside. Before I entered, I took my time to admire the aesthetic of the bus: sleek black, with 'T.V', 'toilette' and 'wifi' stickers near the entrance, reflecting the soft-orange glow of the street light – like gold baby. I also noticed the deep trench grooves on the pristine Bridge Stone tyres and I remember thinking: ohh yeah, that’s the grip I've missed...

After the Bolivian job my nerve-endings were frayed, blown out, disconnected, warn-down or over used, like some poor bastard suffering from shell-shock, but on this trip those little buggers could turn off and relax because I had nothing but safety and comfort. When seated, on the second level, the steward's voice came over the intercom and he femininely announced that we will be under-way after a short safety video from the bus company. The video canvassed many aspects about the features of bus and the journey, the most impressive being the two non-drunk drivers and the GPS tracking of the bus by the company in their central command – so they could monitor if the 90km/h speed limit is exceeded or if the bus had been hijacked... Well, serotonin saturated my nervous system as if a dam broke in my brain – jolting my body with several low force tremors making my back molars chatter together like some kind of peaking junkie. The bus pulled away as I reclined my seat, all-the-way-full-to-160-degrees and I slowly peaked again. Oh mannn, I murmured!

The drive out of town was unrestricted, zero traffic, which was for the best because the driver was unable to swing the big sleek beast around the right-angle bends without ploughing over the side walk. It didn't take long until the lights of the city were drowned out in the abyss that is the Peruvian dessert. The awful movie had finished and the lights were dimmed, a peaceful setting fostering the notion of sleep. Total comfort, calm, quiet, serenity, Xanadu or what ever the fuck, I had it and I was in peace, slowly drifting off and then, without sedative...asleep.

BANG!!! WOH! WHAT THE FUCK WAS THAT?!... I woke suddenly with the sound of a loud bang - my head lanced up above the level of the reclined seats like a periscope and swivelled around to see the toilette door swinging freely, slamming against the wall – strangely no one else was disturbed or awake. Did I dream the noise when I saw the door? Did I hear the noise and dream the door? Did I hear something else and just see the door? Did I dream the door and saw the noise… What? I didn't know... I drew back the curtain to see what was happening outside, which was nothing except a never-ending darkness and my distorted-dim reflection on the frost covered window. Jesus Christ man! You're running on empty, the risk of developing some kind of brain abnormality or causing further damage, is very high! You must rest goddamn it! This bus is going nowhere other than Cusco, so relax and again enter that tranquil nirvana you reached earlier and drift away with the gentle rocking motion of the bus – and whatever you do don't think about valium because you don't need it. That's right, you're Sir Edmund Hillary, Dr. Livingston, Captain Cook, Yuri Gagarin goddamn fucking Indiana Jones... the true adventurer, nothing fazes you - except commitment...

Drift....ing...away... serenity...calm...BANG! The giant two level bus leaped off the road and landed with a tremendous thud – stowed overhead luggage fell, a thrashing sound of metal came from where the steward sat and the toilette door looked like it was possessed. Holy shit, we ran over something! People must have felt that, it moved me out of my goddamn seat and I hit my knee on the window. I again upped periscope and looked at everyone still asleep... or ignoring the obvious. I looked at Charly next to me, curled up in a ball covered in her blanket, motionless and quiet... I judged I shouldn’t wake her up because, well, she deals with a incoherent-reclusive-amped up maniac during the day, she doesn’t need to deal with a incoherent-hallucinating-amped up maniac during the night – even the strong need their sleep, I considered. How the hell can anybody sleep through such a disturbance? I wondered what would happen if I got out of my 160-degree-reclined seat and began howling 'I am the walrus...coo coo coochu' at the top of my lungs. Probably nothing, I suspected because it seemed that I was on a bus filled with sedated geriatrics unable to respond to the strongest type of stimulus. Strange... Had my central nervous system been conditioned to sense mayhem and chaos even when there wasn't any – rapid firing my synapses, triggering random seizures forming experiences that weren't real? Oh this is not good, I reflected as my sweaty hand shook the contents of the bottle of valium – realising that I didn't have much left. Is this a true crisis, I wagered? Unplanned hallucinations are always an unhealthy development in the grand scheme of things, so I briefly considered that I should swallow whatever I had left and deal with what was occurring in the morning because any unwarranted ranting about toilette doors being possessed in this catholic nation will probably have me bound and gagged by some outback quasi cop/priest without any chance of representation or consulate assistance. When it’s a matter of religion: frenzies erupt, rational people go sideways and normally good people will ignore standard humanitarian guidelines. No more thinking about that fucking door!

SCREECH BANG!!! The bus again launched off the ground and then impacted while I was looking out the window, slamming my forehead against my own reflection - this time Charly, who was still half asleep, murmured “what was that?' I didn't know, but I was relieved that someone else noticed and I wasn't losing my mind. “I don't know”, I said. Charly replied while rubbing my back, “Go back to sleep.” Duress of this kind is a rarity in the free world, I thought, only probably felt by those poor bastards in Guantanamo Bay - under random threat of waterboarding. Falling asleep for me under standard conditions is hard enough let alone with the threat of an imminent danger, so being awake took on a new meaning. Whatever we were hitting had no chance against the momentum of the bus, but none of this made sense – we were in the middle of what looked like a desert, travelling on a straight-flat road. The last few times it felt like the driver saw what was coming, making an effort at the last second to at least slow down, yet we were still hitting whatever it was at roughly 90km/h. A gruesome image formed in my mind of the possible carnage that we were leaving behind – I figured llamas were most probable victims because of their poor night vision, but in the dead of night the sound of the bus hurtling along an empty road would be enough to alert a stone... I stayed awake, in anticipation for the next impact – griping the valium bottle with extreme intention...

Roughly two hours later, I had entered a trans-like state, staring at my dim reflection on the frost covered window and I remember thinking: Jesus, look at yourself. Did your personality give you this face or did your face give you your personality? It’s hard to know – it probably occurred symbiotically, one not more dominant than the other, but right now it feels as if the wrinkles are forming faster than usual. You need to relax more man, this is what it’s all about. You are not slaving your time in some fucking job to a fickle overlord who has unbelievable expectations. No, you are having the time of your life, time to expand your near horizons, time to encounter and time to confront. My deep-stupor of contemplation was luckily broken when the bus drew to a slow stop - so slow, that you really didn't notice the bump at the end in the transition from motion to stasis. I pulled back the curtain to see an empty car parked parallel to our bus on the other side of the road, facing the same direction. I used my hands to melt some of the ice which helped my perspective a little - the darkness was impressive, absorbing all the light from our headlights, virtually nothing could be seen on the edges of the road. We stayed there for nearly 30 minutes before the bus edged forward slowly to then stop again, which was repeated several times over 10 minutes. Strange tactile driving on an empty highway, I thought - as if the driver was trying to manoeuvre the behemoth across a bridge made of string. What the hell was happening? Only questions and not enough goddamn answers on this cold-dark night in the dessert. Charly must have felt the heat from my ramped-up metabolism and rose from her coma. “What's wrong?” she said annoyed. I began to explain to her what had been happening, but I realised that I ran the risk of losing any respect I had by talking emotionally not factually. Better keep quite, I thought. “Nothing”, I replied.

I was still staring outside, fogging the window with hyperventilation, when a single man dressed like a cop walked out of the darkness on the other side of the road pointing at the driver who surged the bus forward, seemingly startled by the instant presence of the cop. The cop reacted to the movement and ran towards the bus with one hand on his hip and the other waving frantically. The bus stopped with a sudden jolt causing a small reverberation throughout the cabin, waking all the geriatrics from their comas, all sluggish with their senses. AHH HA mother fuckers! Now you are in this with me! The passenger door opened and then slammed shut at the same time as the buses engines moaned with exertion, hurling us forward 12 meters to come to a screeching halt – leaving the bus strewed diagonally across the two lanes of the highway. The dozy geriatrics were now fully awake with concern – their heads bobbing around above the headrests like owls trying to audio-locate their prey. Images of the safety video, shown at the beginning of our journey, flashed into my memory stirring great feelings of hatred and contempt - where is the goddamn SAS, James Bond, mum or dad parachuting to our global position system to make this fucking bus continue to Cusco? Something was said by the mysterious cop and the bus driver threw the bus into reverse and sent the heavy machine back 40m at full-speed to then slam on the breaks again. More bags fell from overhead and some of the geriatrics squealed with the excitement. The cop caught up to the bus and said something which made the driver open and shut the door again. Holly shit, I blurted, we're about to become a page in the Lonely Planet guide ' Guerilla warfare - Special Edition’. I heard some loud voices shouting downstairs and then someone banging on one of the windows when out the corner of my eye I saw another man, dressed normally, run by my window carrying what looked like ladders – which seemed to scare the shit out of the driver who then roared the bus forward at full speed! Jesús was screamed by some of the geriatrics as we ran over a large object, but something told me we were not stopping any time soon judging by our hasty acceleration through the 90km/h speed limit.

What had happened? I still didn't know, even after thoroughly applying every possible scenario to the given information. I could maybe have narrowed it down to a dozen or so situations but all normality was blown off when the guy with the ladders arrived. Answers were not offered by anyone, including the steward who was completely quiet during the commotion. What did he think of this, I wondered. Shortly after reaching what may have been a safe cruising speed of 140km/h he did receive a phone-call from the “Captain”. The steward only replied, “Si señor”, making no effort of questioning as to what the fuck were we doing! Were we testing the suspension system, the breaks, the door? Was there a catastrophic need for ladder at 2:30am so severe that we had to pull over and do a jig to get one? AHHHGGGHHH THE QUESTIONS I HAVE!

Charly, as she often dose after facing her own mortality, switched off a switch somewhere in her anterior insula and fell back asleep... Fascinating. She doesn’t need pointless answers like I do, nor closure. A horrible thing could happen to her during the day and she would fall asleep like a baby that night – able to rationally segregate the experience in the back of her mind. Me, I sweat the experience and taste its salts for days until my mind is happy that I have thought about every possible outcome to deny the reality.
The rest of the bus, after discussing what had happened, relaxed and I guessed tried to fall asleep as well. Not me however, I was fighting the urge to eat all the valium including the plastic with its embedded remnants, but considered that the effects would wash me into a sloth-like hangover, completely ruining the day of exploring. Staring down looking at my fingers, I noticed that one of them was bleeding from to much gnawing and with disgust I again looked out the window to find little solace in the cold-darkness, thinking too much – probability, eventuality and finality, considering the point of it all, only to be murdered in a Peruvian desert. I missed my family and my five friends but I still had my strong wings: Charly, who was now fast asleep after flicking the switch. Existentialism seems to be the token fall back position after any harrowing event, maybe it’s the brain’s way of rewiring a kink into already hard-wired components. But it’s laced with problems if you listen to it too closely and start thinking passively and before you know it you've been lead down the back alleys of hopelessness pondering if a person you haven't seen for ten years was truly offended when you mentioned that thing about the place and that Rabbi. Just when I was about to fully submerge into the existential moor, my eyes refocused to my reflection on the window to see another wrinkle slowly etching its way across my brow. Ah to hell with it... we made it: just the babble of an exhausted mind.   

Thursday, 10 January 2013

Finding and leaving home in Arequipa (6-9 August 2012)

After a great (if a little toilet-heavy) weekend with Diego and his parents it was time to leave Chile behind, and apparently the most common way to cross the boarder was by taxi. Diego’s dad drove us to the spot where these taxis where waiting and he had soon found a guy who would drive us to Tacna in Peru. “Taxi” seemed to be a very loose term in this case, since his rusty car didn’t even have one of the cheap, little “TAXI” stickers that you can buy at every corner shop. But Diego’s dad assured us that this is OK, so we put or backpacks and the guitar into the boot of this car/taxi. Next, the driver wanted our passports. Another alarm bell went off in my head, but again Diego’s dad assured us that this is OK. So we handed our passports over to the driver and he disappeared into a small hut. Five minutes later he returned and we said our goodbyes to Diego’s dad. Once we were seated on the fluffy back seats, two guys climbed in beside us. So we were actually sharing this cab with other people? Oh well, another alarm bell to ignore and off we went. It turned out the two young guys were on their bi-monthly trip to Peru to get their braces tightened and after a 20-minute drive through the desert, we arrived at the Chilean side of the boarder where we received our passports back. Hurrah. Once our bags were scanned at the Peruvian side of the boarder, we continued our drive through the desert and 45 minutes later we arrived in the rather desolate looking town of Tacna. Ritchie’s bowels were holding up, so we decided to catch the next bus to Arequipa.


The buses in Bolivia had been, let’s say, basic. Therefore we didn’t expect much from the buses in Peru, and we were truly surprised when we found out that our bus would not only have a TV and meals but also WIFI! The 6-hours flew by but Rich was still a little weak from his stomach issues, and we were very happy when we finally arrived at our hostel in Arequipa.

The next morning we went for a walk through the centre and we right away loved Peru’s white city. 


At the big market you can enjoy a dirt-cheap papa rellena (filled potato) with hot sauce and a fresh fruit juice while watching the flies that occupy the cow tongues and chicken feet on the opposite market stall. Somehow I didn’t manage to drag Rich to this part of the market too many times… 


But we both loved the architecture of Arequipa. The plaza was the prettiest that we had seen so far, surrounded by big colonial buildings and a massive cathedral, with the Misti and Chanchani volcanoes in the background.


At the crater of another volcano close to Arequipa, some researchers found the body of an Inca girl in 1995. The girl was about 11-15 years old when she was killed as an offering to the Inca gods sometime between 1450 and 1480, and due to the ice, her body was in a very good condition. We were able to see “Juanita” at the Museo Santuarios Andinos and the museum gave us a first insight into the dark sides of the Inca culture…

Another historical sight of Arequipa is the Convento de Santa Catalina, a huge monastery which was built and extended throughout the 16th and 17th centuries.


Our hostel was great too and we felt like we had kind of “arrived” somewhere special. This was perfect since we were planning to stay in Arequipa for a few weeks. The British girls from our Amazon tour in Bolivia had told us about an orphanage in Arequipa where had volunteered. Before we had left for the Year of Winter, I had hoped that we would come across a nice project where we could help for a little while and this seemed to be the perfect opportunity. We went to the office of the organisation “Traveller not Tourist” and it turned out that they were in need of more volunteers for exactly the time that we were planning to be there. But before we could start, we were meant to meet Aiden, one of Ritchie’s best friends, in Cusco.

So after three relaxed days in Arequipa, we left our new found home and half of our luggage behind to catch the overnight bus to Cusco…


PS: Traveller not Tourist is currently short of volunteers! If you aren’t able to travel to Arequipa, please spread the word!